Alison AplinRoses – why some perform better

Have you ever wondered why some people’s roses appear to do better than others’? It may have absolutely nothing to do with the regular fertiliser regime, the amount of water, how you prune them, whether you summer prune them and so on. It may be purely the fact that they are on different rootstocks.In former gardens I always grew roses. My mother loved them and I went through a phase of constantly sourcing different roses to grow. My preference was for the old fashioned varieties; in the later gardens these roses were always grown on Rosa multiflora rootstock. As a person who usually researches most things that interest me, rose culture was no different. And by reading books by respected gardeners found out why this rootstock would work best for me.

Rose sickness, from my own personal experience, is a problem that rose purchasers should be aware, especially with roses purchased on Doctor Hughie rootstock. They tend to sucker profusely once stressed, are prone to rose sickness, are more disease affected and appear to need regular amounts of water in order to stop them suckering. They almost demand a clay sub-soil but roses on Rosa multiflora rootstock are not fussy about their soil – they seem to manage where-ever they are planted, as long as they are kept moist until fully settled in. Once settled, they don’t look back.

Rose sickness, according to Christopher Lloyd, is more correctly called “Specific Replant Disease”. In his wonderful book, “The Well-Tempered Garden”, 1970: p239, Lloyd refers to the “mysterious soil-borne disease whose existence has been known for over 200 years but whose causal agents have yet to be identified”. He identifies this disease as what we know as rose sickness. He also makes mention of the fact that Rosa multiflora rootstock is resistant. Considering that this was pretty common knowledge over 40 years ago, why then do we still have rose growers using Doctor Hughie rootstock?

Lloyd, in his book “The Well Chosen Garden”, 1984: p15 discusses the issue of pests and disease amongst roses. He states “It should be remembered that the greater the field numbers of density of any single crop or creature, the greater the field day for parasites and disease organisms to which they are a prey”. He also goes on to state that “the greater the variety of plants that you grow, the fewer will be your problems”.

Christopher Lloyd, now deceased, was a remarkable English gardening identity. I went to a talk that he gave many years ago now when he visited South Australia and was instantly attracted to his witty, charismatic charm. He was immensely knowledgeable on the subject of gardening, realising especially the need to fit your choice of plant to the type of soil within your garden. I found his wisdom to be quite inspirational; he was elderly at the time and had had many years of hands-on gardening experience.

Roses in a mixed planting

Rose gardens, where roses predominate, are a monoculture and are more prone to fungal problems and disease. When roses are grown amongst other shrubbery in borders, reminiscent of English style gardens, the incidence of disease and pests is considerably reduced. Small birds and natural predators also inhabit gardens of greater plant diversity, and it is these creatures that keep aphids and other pests at bay, especially when no toxic chemicals are used. Gardens of greater plant diversity encourage biodiversity in all its forms – this is why a real garden is such a healthy place – a haven for all manner of diverse species that work within this ecological microclimate.

Blushing Iceberg within a mixed garden

I have also found that many roses grow very well when struck as cuttings, with no grafting. Selecting vigorous varieties is the safest measure, because they will strike better. Grouping one colour range is the safest, and often the most aesthetically pleasing – far more so than one of yellow, one of red, one of pink and so on. You often see bright pink roses with gaudy yellow which I personally don’t like. Bright pink with pale yellow or cream and conversely pale pink with gold work well together, but it is often safest to keep these colours apart if in doubt.

As a sustainable advocate, I choose to use roses on multiflora rootstock because I don’t have the need to keep spraying for fungal problems and I also never spray to eradicate aphis – I let nature take care of itself without human interference. They also need far less water through the drier months with the ‘deep and infrequent’ method of application. And of course these roses don’t sucker, the most influential reason I have for choosing this rootstock.

Like this post? Why not share it with a friend?


Categories: Gardening, Plants
Tags: , , , , , , , ,
Alison Aplin

About Alison Aplin

Former owner and designer of Australia’s only ecotourism and multi award winning garden Timandra [now Mintaro Garden Rooms], in the Clare Valley SA. She has a Diploma of Horticulture and is an Arborist with a deep respect for trees. Alison is a passionate advocate for the environment and nature in general. She is the managing partner and designer for Timandra Design & Landscaping, constantly learning her craft through her own gardens, now Timandra by the Sea. Further info about this business can be seen at www.timandra.com.au

4 thoughts on “Roses – why some perform better

  1. Linda on said:

    Hi Alison
    In the metropolitan area of Perth, Western Australia the recommended rootstock is R. fortuneana. It is superior on our sandy soils and is more resistant to nematodes. Most of the commercial nurseries use it as a rootstock but I remember when a large hardware store sold roses imported from the eastern states that were on a rootstock less suited to our conditions and it was really obvious how inferior they were so it certainly pays to select the correct rootstock for your situation.
    Linda

    • AliCat on said:

      I just love Rosa fortuneana when grown as a climbing rose – and it is so tough. I would like to see it used in eastern parts of Australia where there is no clay subsoil. I really think that it would work well. Doctor Hughie is, in my opinion, a shocking rootstock and people should be wary if they don’t have the required clay base.
      Thank you for your comment Linda.
      Alison

  2. anne latreille on said:

    Just caught up with this, Alison. I was taught by my mother (who was taught by her mother) that if you take out a rose, you should give that patch of dirt at least a couple of years’ rest before you introduce another. That is, plant something quite different there, to freshen up the soil. Any comment?

    • AliCat on said:

      I would assume that your mother and grandmother were wise gardeners.
      In the earlier times they would not have grafted their roses, but certain roses still have the tendency to leave ‘Rose Sickness’ in the soil. Fortuneana and multiflora have both been found to be far superior roses for grafting without suckering. Indica was once used but this also suckers like the Doctor Hughie and so is now rarely if ever used.
      We need to listen to gardeners who have had considerable experience – this knowledge is invaluable to pass down through the generations.
      Alison

Feel free to comment (no need to register)

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

You may use these HTML tags and attributes: <a href="" title=""> <abbr title=""> <acronym title=""> <b> <blockquote cite=""> <cite> <code> <del datetime=""> <em> <i> <q cite=""> <strike> <strong>