Bernard ChapmanClivia – my favourite plant!

Like parents with their children, gardeners often have a favourite among all of the plants that they grow. Without doubt my great horticultural love is clivia, most especially the cream ones. 

Massed cream clivia with Belgium hybrid clivia behind.


They are perennials in the Amaryllidaceae family, related to naked ladies and hippeastrums. There are only six actual clivia species, the best-known being Clivia miniata, mainly the orange one, usually grown in massed planting. They have shiny, dark green strap-like leaves, which grow from a central crown, sending out babies (pups) on the side.

Lots of common clivia, Clivia miniata.


Here I want to give a very brief history of the plant and, more importantly, some advice on how to grow them based on my own experience. I have been growing them for over thirty years. However, not all I do, I fear, would be sanctioned by traditional clivia growers and breeders!

Many gardeners know that the clivia is named after Lady (Charlotte) Clive, the Duchess of Northumberland. The reason the plant was named after her was because, after it was first taken to England in the early 1800’s, she was the first person to produce flowers. There is some confusion as to how to pronounce clivia. Most commonly, people say cly – vee – aah.

Belgium hybrids massed.


Clivia grow naturally in southern Africa (South Africa and Swaziland), and do well if given shade and are not exposed to extreme cold or humidity. They will not tolerate frosts. Direct sun should be avoided at all costs.

Clivia are incredibly good cut flowers. Some flowers I have cut have lasted almost two weeks in a vase. The berries are also very ornamental and can be used in flowering arrangements, too.

Clivia make an outstanding flower for vases.

Belgium hybrids add a splash of colour indoors and last well after cutting.

Cream clivia berries.

Cream clivia.


Lots of variety

The range of colours and sizes is extraordinary. Colour-wise, besides the creams, yellow, pinks, oranges, and reds, there are bicolour flowers, which can be very dramatic. There are also green flowering cultivars. Clivia nobilis, the first that Lady Charlotte made flower in Britain, has almost weeping flowers that are orange, green and yellow, all on the same flower. 

Red clivia.

Yellow clivia grouped together.

This is a pink clivia bought at Bunnings.


The size of leaves and flowers is also quite variable. Some flowers are almost spider like, while others are truly blousy and dramatically large. Leaves can also vary greatly from belt thin to wide with large rounded tips.

Bicolour hybrids in bloom.

I believe this is Col Pitman clivia.


There are also variegated plants, where their leaves, flowers and berries all share this trait. Even the variegations can vary, on leaves, even to banding, or in the variation of the amount of cream and shades of green they present.

Variegated Sahin Twin clivia. Photo: © 2017 Pine Mountain Nursery


There is clivia cultivar called ‘Twins’. It has usually has two flowers on the same plant, usually at the same time, and is a dwarf form of the Belgium hybrid.

Twins clivia.


Clivia miniata is the most widely grown, but the grandiflora clivia are also often found in a temperate climate. The showier Belgium or Dutch hybrids are the ones with bigger darker orange flowers, strong leaves and darker berries.

Clivia grandiflora.

Beglium hybrids massed.


Growing conditions

Apart from their hatred of a full sun position and dislike for humidity, clivia are surprisingly easy going about where they are growing. They are actually semi-epiphytic (air plants) with roots, at a glance, not dissimilar to cymbidium orchids. I actually have dug clivia up, left them in in plastic pots for over four months without compost, soil or potting mix, and they have not only thrived but also flowered, with the addition of just a little water.

Developing roots when left in a pot without medium.

This pink clivia has been in this pot for over a year without compost or any other plant media and it is not only growing fine but has also flowered.


When I pot clivia I never use potting mix, but prefer orchid compost, used with great success. I am unsure how clivia growers would feel about this, but know it works well for me. I am also intending to trial a clivia on a tree fern with a pouch of peat moss. At present the drought in Sydney is stopping me!

Freshly potted clivia in orchid compost.

Clivia growing in pot without medium.


Clivia, when grown in the ground, thrive on compost, leaf litter and mulch. Although they probably would grow happily on concrete, they do need good drainage if planted in the ground, and heavy clay soils should be avoided.


Watering and feeding

Clivia are generally quite a drought tolerant plant and, it has been suggested to me that not watering them, or watering sparingly, in winter will encourage better flowering (probably by stressing them). When established they only need to be watered occasionally and will still grow well enough with neglect.

Feeding clivia, in my experience, will help flowering. I apply a pelleted feed a couple of times a year, and a foliar feed every couple of weeks. However, I should point out that Ken Smith, a very talented clivia grower and former TAFE teacher of mine, did a study on feeding clivia a few years ago and could not find any consistent feeding program that worked.


Pests and diseases

The greatest downfall of clivia is that it does have some nasty enemies. Mealy bug and aphids can attack them from time to time. However, their greatest nemesis is the lily or amaryllis caterpillar. This can attack any member of the Amaryllidaceae family, but seems, unfortunately, to prefer clivia.

Amaryllis caterpillar or borer, Brithys crini. Photo: Jon Richfield, CC License


The caterpillar prefers dry conditions, so be more vigilant in these periods. The caterpillar is less active in the colder months, too. The moth, about 5 cm across, lays lots of eggs so the damage done can be catastrophic if the caterpillars are not found early after they hatch. If not found, they eat all the leaves down into the crown of the plant. Cutting off leaves that are affected, with the caterpillars on them, can help a lot if the attack is found early.


Propagating clivia by division

When I got my first cream clivia, almost thirty years ago, it was expensive and came from South Australia by post. I kept dividing it until I had six and then more. I have been lucky enough to have given a great many away, too. Also, I have bought more over the years, especially to get better flowers (for example, Clivia miniata ‘Col Pitman is a cultivar with a lovely showy flower).

Thus division is a sensible exercise if you wish for your collection to grow. Also, if plants are left undisturbed for years they can continue to grow, but often will flower less. As with most clumping perennials, division encourages vigour and flowering. In fact, if plants are left undivided for too many years there is a greater danger of them rotting in humid weather.

When you need to divide plants, dig up the clump with a spade or pitchfork. Often there will be two or three good size plants in the clump, plus a few pups (the cute name for the offshoots). With a below ground saw or old kitchen knife neatly trim the roots, cut through the plants, trying to keep as much root attached, and separate the pups.

Cut up clivia showing orchid-like roots.


The plants can be potted up (and, as I said, I use orchid compost), but watering must be limited if they are potted as there is a great danger the newly potted plants may rot. I always apply seaweed extract and the fungicide phosacid when first watering to help new root growth and general vigour, and to help prevent fungal attack (such as phytophora). Make sure, too, that you do not put the plants in too big a pot. You can always pot them up when their root ball is more developed.

If you are planting into the soil add organic matter, such as well-rotted compost, eucalyptus bark (or similar), and some pelleted fertiliser. Again, water with seaweed extract and phosacid, and water sparingly after that.

Red berries.


Propagating clivia from seed

Obviously, clivia can be grown from seed, but keep in mind that they will not always be true to type (remember Mendel’s Law re chromosomes). I have never produced a cream flower when I have grown mine from seed, even though I grow all my cream clivia together. Indeed, it is a good idea to keep different colours separate to each other to discourage cross-pollination.

Besides their attractive flowers, clivia also have beautiful berries that colour to suit whichever colour the flowers were. Thus, cream flowering plants have cream berries, variegated ones have variegated fruit, and red ones have red berries and so on.

Inside each berry there are often two to four seeds. I ‘squish’ open the outside membrane and put the seeds on the top of potting mix, pressing them in very slightly. It can take weeks, even months, for the seeds to germinate so be patient. Water occasionally, but nothing else is required.

Ken Smith once told me, of plants you have germinated from seed, that it is possible to tell what colour their flowers will be up until about a year into the growth. If you are trying to grow cream clivia, for example, the base of the seedling should be cream. If red or pink, they will eventually flower orange.

After a year apparently it is impossible to tell what colour the flowers will be, regardless of the colour of the crown base. I have found this to be true. As it can take plants three years until they flower, it is worth knowing this fact.

Almost Red clivia.

Cream clivia growing in a clump.


In conclusion, clivia are attractive, easy to grow plants that produce stunning flowers of an amazing array of colour. If insect attack is monitored this should not be a problem. Their flowers are good for cutting, but also provide a dramatic display in the garden. Clivia need little water or feeding, but definitely must be grown in the shade. Little wonder they are my firm favourite!

Single Red clivia.

Pink clivia.




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35 thoughts on “Clivia – my favourite plant!

  1. Dear Bernard,
    So enjoy reading your articles. We are loving the cream cliveas you gave me growing in a large pot. I separated one or two the year before last and planted these in the garden and I have had two cream stems from these plants but many slightly different orange ones have also grown. Have tied cords to mark the cream ones and intend to move the others away when I can dig again – currently have a five week in plaster broken arm.
    We were travelling in Toronto Canada when I read your article on hydrangeas. Visited a 1920s castle, Casa Loma, lovely old wall about 15 metres high x six or more metres with Hydrangea peteolaris covering a large area. Bob took a photo but we are still sorting through thousands of pictures, will send you a copy when we get organised.

    • Thanks, Sue. I wonder what happend to you arm?!?
      I will check out the garden you visited, as we may be in Toronto next year.
      I am glad your clivia are doing well.
      Lots of Hugs, Bernard

    • Thanks, Frances. Much as I love this plant their flowering period is not all that long.
      I am surprised that clivia grow in Toowoomba, as they don’t like humidity. My sister grows them in the Sunshine Hinterland, but divides them regularly.
      Cheers, Bernard

    • Nice to hear from you, Jeff.
      As I hope my photos show, the cream clivia are stunning. The red ones are also pretty amazing.
      I am keen to buy some variegated ones – maybe a variegated one with cream, flowers!
      Cheers, Bernard

  2. Thanks for the interesting article. We are in northern Tas and the frost is severe at times, would clivia like living permanently in a large verandah pot (out of frost).

    • Hi Olwyn, Yes, they should be fine. In Europe they are often grown actually indoors. It might be worth experimenting with one on the verandah and see how it fares. I do know someone who grows the common Clivia miniata in the ground under large trees, even though they get frosts. The plants survive apparently.
      As with any plants under cover (and out of rain), as they would be on your verandah, I imagine, the leaves need an occasional wash or hosing. Dusty leaves are more likely to suffer insect attack, such as mealey bug, and the plant cannot photosynthesize properly with dirty leaves. Cheers, Bernard

  3. Hello Bernard, enjoyed reading your article as always. I will pass your good advice onto green thumb & gardener in our home, Jim! Our clivia which grow well in the south-facing garden sometimes do get invaded by those yellow, black & red caterpillars that you show, wreaking havoc on the plants so will keep a closer eye to clear them out sooner after their arrival…. Hope you are enjoying London! Love, Angela x

  4. We been in he same house for 40 years and this year all our cliveas have died. Not happy Jan. They have been treated for caterpillars and still they died. Anyone who wants to get rid of some please let us know. carol

  5. Hi Bernard, enjoyed your article very much. Clivia are beautiful plants and easy to grow. They now come in a remarkable range of colours. For many years now we open Pine Mountain Nursery for one weekend of the year for people to come and see our massive range of flowering clivia plants. In 2018 the open days are from 14 to 16 September 2018. We are located half way between Brisbane and Toowoomba at Pine Mountain. John C

  6. Hi Bernard. My Clivia miniata roots sadly rotted and I am anxious to save this wonderful plant. Having cut the plant back to healthy stem, can you advise the best way to encourage new root growth? Is there any hope? I re-potted it and a tiny root has formed. However the lower leaves are yellowing and the green leaves starting to shrivel very slightly. Should it be placed in the light? I have kept it in low light up until now. Despite this it is putting out a flower stalk! I would love to save it. I hope to hear from you.

  7. Hi Lee, It sounds like you are killing your clivia with kindness! The biggest killer of clivia is overwatering. I have saved rotting clivia by leaving the plants in water with Phosacid in it (for a couple of hours). I then normally leave the plant in the shade with no potting media or soil. Genuinely let the plant to dry out for a couple of days. Then pot it into a very small pot (using orchid compost) or, if you prefer planting it straight in the ground make sure the drainage is good and, MOST IMPORTANTLY, don’t water! This is especially true in Winter. After a couple of weeks when you do water the plant use some seaweed extract to encourage new root growth. Do not put the plant in more light either. Clivia love the shade. I hope this makes sense.

  8. Hi Bernard – thanks so much for your kind reply which is much appreciated. I’ve been away on holiday and only just noticed it! Advice I had previously read online suggested putting the clivia in water to encourage root growth so it had been sitting in a little water in a dimly lit room for a week whilst I was away. On my return today several more of the leaves are completely yellow and there are no signs of root growth. It has come into flower and the stem remains strong. Shall I leave it in water or dry it off? I’m concerned that because it can’t draw up water I will lose it before long. Sorry to bother you again. Best wishes, Lee-Ann

  9. Hi Lee-Ann, Remember Clivia are semi-ephitic, a little like orchids, so too much water is always more likely to kill them than not enough. I still feel you should add some Phosacid (sold as Yates Anti-Rot) to the water, this fungicide will help stop any rotting that may occur.

    Take off any yellow leaves. I still feel like I said in my earlier post to you, that after steeping the plant in the fungicide I would leaved the plant in the shade but exposed to the air for a few days. I would then pot it into a very small pot, using orchid compost. Water VERY infrequently!

    Good Luck

  10. Please see that I left you a reply on the website, Lee-Ann. Somehow it was not put in as a reply. Sorry. It is under my name! Cheers, Bernard

  11. Thanks again Bernard. Yates Anti-Rot does not appear to be available here in the UK but I’ll try to find an alternative. I’ll keep you posted – Lee-Ann

  12. Dear Lee-Ann, Only just noticed this. The active constituent in Anti Rot is Phosacid, so this should be on the front of the label, whatever the brand name is. Hope this helps, Cheers, Bernard

  13. My granddaughter bought me a clivia last Christmas 2017, and it looks really healthy, I do not water it much, but I have noticed one of the leaves looks as if something has been eating the edges. also another leaf looks like it is going brown and ‘papery’ in parts. I have searched through the other leaves but can find no trace of any insects.
    It is kept on a windowsill out of direct sunlight and as I said watered infrequently. It has not flowered yet.

    • Dear Muriel
      As I mention in the article, the greatest pest that attacks clivia is the Lily or Amarylis caterpillar, but this does massive damage, even eating the whole plant overnight. It could be crickets, but this is difficult to spray for and if damage is confined to one leaf, it might be best to cut off the affected leaf. Is the paperly leaf an older one? Regarding flowering, do you feed at all? I use a smelly pelleted type twice a year on mine (but not a good idea for a plant like yours on a window sill!). Perhaps apply a slow release fertiliser like Osmocote for Potted Plants.

    • If the plant is going well, and does not need extra nitrogen, perhaps a light sprinkle of a slow release fertiliser for citrus or roses. Remember when you water, less is best. Once a week could be too often. Clivia are much more likely to die from rotting rather than water stress. Always water potted plants less in Winter.
      Good luck,

  14. Thanks for the article very useful and informative.
    Iv’e been dilligently growing my creme clivia seeds for a few years now but keep getting orange flowers, lovely colour, just not creme. Initially
    I thought I must have started with some red ones but have come to realise they weren’t all from red/orange plants.
    So you’ve confirmed my suspicions.
    Just need to work out how they grow creme ones.

    • Hi Peter, Cream clivia can be grown from division (a ‘pup’) from a parent cream plant. Also, you can buy cream from reputable nurseries. You don’t say how you you got yours. Cream seeds don’t always produce cream plants (Mendel’s Law at work). Cheers, Bernard Chapman

  15. We have a garden bed full of Clivias and the lower leaves of many of the plants are going yellow with brown tips and edges. The upper leaves appear a normal dark green colour. Any ideas what may be causing this yellowing? We are not over-watering and only occasionally feeding with pelleted fertiliser.

    • Hi Andrew, With clivia overwatering is easy to do. Treat them more like orchids. They are more likely to survive with NO water than too much. Are your plants rotting at the base? Yellow leaves could be nutrient difficiency or old age, but often it is due to overwatering. I find applying a foliar feed every 2 weeks (to well watered plant) helps flowering. They need great drainage, so check this too.
      Cheers, Bernard

  16. Hi Bernard, thank you for this article. t’s fantastic to be able to find some information about Clivias.
    I have couple of questions about Clivia Belgium Hybrid. Is it possible to grow it from seed? (a friend gave me some seeds that were actually marked as Clivia Miniata Belgium Hybrid Orange, but being a cultivar, I’m not very convinced that they’ll actually be Belgium Hybrids). Also, all the Clivia Belgium Hybrids examples and photos I’ve seen so far suggest that they have broad leaves compared to Clivia Miniata. Is that correct? Or is there such a thing such as Belgium hybrid with thin leaves? Thank you for your time, I really appreciate it! 🙂

    • Dear Erika,

      Firstly, thank you for reading my article. I am glad you found it useful.

      Regarding growing clivia from seed to be true to type, I agree with you that this is unreliable. I don’t know the source of your special seed, but unless the plants have been grown away from other species and cultivars, Mendel’s Law comes into play and you get mixed plants! With my cream clivia I have never had one cream plant from the seeds of cream plants – only orange! And remember it takes around 3 years usually until they flower.

      • Belgium hybrids are grown for their showy large leaves and flowers. The flower colour is also usually deeper, so you will not get thin leaved ones.
        I am unsure why you want Belgium hybrids with thin leaves, just grow Clivia miniata (orange) or Clivia citriodora (cream). Perhaps you want dwarf plants? Twins is a cultivar that is considered dwarf, as it is lower than most clivia, but its leaves are big. I have recently bought what I am told is a dwarf clivia (Clivia miniata ‘Bronze Moon X sett’. I will keep you posted how it turns out, but, at present, it is only a young seedling
        Warm Regards

  17. Hi Bernard, thank you for a great article. I have a huge bed of Clivias and unfortunately something is attacking them. I believe it might be to caterpillar you mention. Appears that the whole surface of the leaf is stripped off so that it looks like tissue paper. On other parts of the leaf, looks munched on the side. Can you please tell me how to fix this problem. I so much want to save my Clivias.

  18. Hi Bernard, I have collected seeds from my last year Cream Clivia, planted them in pots in potting mix and pleased to see all of them are growing.
    Now I’m a little disappointed to read that there is no guarantee they will produce Cream flowers 🙁 and around 3 years before they flower. Nevertheless, whatever colour, they are a beautiful flower. At 76 I hope I am around to see what colour they actually produce! lol I divided a huge pot for my neighbour, kept some for myself and gave her 2 large pots back! Thanks for a great informative article

    • Dear Margaret, Thank you for your email. Sadly life sends us curve balls such as Mendel’s x & y chromosomes, so purity means plant characteristics will vary. Do reread the mention above though, up to around the end of the first year, if the base of the stem is cream or green clivia should flower cream. If they are red at the base they are more likely to be orange or red. After this it is difficult to tell. Cheers, Bernard

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