Marianne CannonHow to grow edible bananas at home

Bananas are a versatile plant in any landscape, and add a lush, tropical look to any area. Although everyone knows the fruit, few people have experience growing edible varieties of the plant. Did you know that bananas can grow it regions other than the tropics? They are actually the world’s largest herb, a plant that goes on producing year after year.

Mature banana plant

Mature banana plant

Bananas, botanically in the Musa genus, are distantly related to ginger and heliconia. What looks like a trunk is actually a pseudostem, formed by leaves wrapping around each other, with new leaves arising from the centre as the plant grows. The true stem is underground. Bananas are fast growing, usually putting out one new leaf every week. Some form clumps by suckering and others remain solitary.

[Note that Ensete ventricosum, the false banana, is closely related and similar-looking plant but is grown for its decorative foliage, or its starchy rhizome, not its fruit]

Climate: bananas like a subtropical climate to do best, with high humidity (at least 50%) and temperatures around 25-30ºC (75-85º F). They will suffer in places with dry, hot summers, unless you’ve got some way of making a more humid microclimate. Wind can shred the leaves and make them look pretty ugly (as well as dessicate the plant), so if you’ve got room to plant several together, they can make their own sheltered microclimate. In cooler but humid climates, choose a sheltered, sunny spot, but in hot tropical areas you’d be better off growing them in some shade.

Commercially grown Cavendish bananas

Commercially grown Cavendish bananas

While it is possible to grow banana plants in cool temperate zones and have them produce fruit, unfortunately it is unlikely that the fruit will mature properly before cold weather sets in. Banana plants in cool temperate districts tend to produce a bunch in early summer which would have them ripen well into the cold weather period of mid-winter 6 months later. In the cooler climate of southern Victoria (for example Melbourne), with the shorter daylight hours and overnight temperature drops, maturation takes from 5 to 6 months or more (again depending on conditions).

Bananas can, however, be picked early and ripened by placing in a plastic bag with a couple ripening apples, although some say that because the fruit is not mature it lacks flavour and sweetness.

I’ve seen banana plants being coddled in the south of England at Great Dixter. (photo below). These plants are protected by a surrounding hedge, as well as a stack of hay which is held together by bamboo poles. Cavendish banana, Musa acuminata, is one of the best for cold climates and others like sugar banana, Musa paradisiaca, are a good all-round variety.

Bananas at Great Dixter, UK, protected by hay

Bananas at Great Dixter, UK, protected by hay

Planting: In Australia, before you plant a banana you need to check with your state government authority whether you need a planting permit as there are several banana protection areas through Queensland and NSW. It’s free, but absolutely necessary, even for one backyard plant in your home garden. This means that the source of any disease threats like devastating bunchy top (see Pests and Diseases below) which is spread by people planting infected suckers, or potentially weedy wild bananas can be quickly identified, which will help protect the country’s banana-growing industry.

Bananas are a BIG plant, up to 10m (33ft) so you need to make sure you’ve got plenty of room for the plant to grow and mature, and they’ll grow better if they’re away from trees with strongly competing root systems. They’re grown from a rhizome which you plant in rich, well-drained soil, covering the rhizome with only about 2cm (½ inch) of soil, or it will rot. You might buy a plant already in leaf – some people like to cut off those leaves and also trim back any roots to a 3-5 cm (2 inches). And no, you can’t grow bananas from seed, as only wild bananas have seeds.

Improve your soil with manure and compost so it both holds water but still drains well. Water the newly planted banana well, and make sure you keep it well-watered as it grows. Bananas need a lot of water!

Growth: The fleshy ‘stems’ sheathed with huge broad leaves can grow up to 10 metres (33ft) in as little as 1 year, depending on the variety and growing environment. Keep your plant well-watered and fed with a balanced fertiliser, although bananas do like lots of potassium as well. If the temperature drops too low (under 14ºC, or 55ºF), stop fertilising and watering. Keep the soil well-mulched. Each new leaf appears as a furled ‘cigar’ leaf, which takes about a week to unfurl. After the plant stops producing these cigar leaves, it is mature and ready to flower.

banana flower

Banana plant showing large purple male flower ‘bell’ with the female flower showing at the top of the bell as the bracts curl back.

Flowering and Fruiting: After approximately six months, when the banana plant’s leaf formation is completed and the plant has matured, a flowering stalk grows up through the centre of the pseudostem and emerges from the top of the plant. This flowering stalk appears as a large, dark-purple bud and is called the bell. This is the male part of the flower. As the upper female part of the flower matures, the covering bracts curl back to show a developing ‘hand’ of bananas. Unusually, the fruit develops parthenocarpically, which means without fertilisation, or any seeds.

Some banana plants can produce up to 10 or so flowers and hands. As the hand grows, it can become very heavy (up to 40kg, or 90lbs) so you might need to prop or tie it up. In the subtropics it takes between 2 and 4 months for bananas to ripen (depending on variety, weather and other conditions). The hand turns upwards as the fruit grows.

Cavendish banana showing the developing fruit. Photo by *Spatz* (Creative Commons Licence 3.0)

Cavendish banana showing the female flowers developing into fruit. Photo by *Spatz* (Creative Commons Licence 3.0)

Harvesting: Like most fruit, bananas that have been left to ripen on the plant taste the best and that way they will not all ripen at once. They will start ripening once the last bits of flower at the base of the banana rub off easily, or as the plant begins to die back. But watch out for banana thieves, like possums, rats and birds! And if the banana hand is in too much sun, it might also scorch on a hot day. You can cover it with shade cloth, or a coloured plastic bag which is what most commercial growers do.

Don’t forget to harvest your banana leaves as well, which make great wrappings for steaming fish and meat, or as a serving ‘plate’. You can also use the leaves and stems to make fibre and yarn.

Ripening hands of bananas

Ripening hands of bananas

Once your banana plant has gone through its fruiting cycle (after about 9-10 months), the mother plant will begin to die, leaving lots of banana plant ‘pups’ around the base. This group of plants all attached to the one rhizome is called the ‘stool’ or ‘mat’. Cut the dying leaves of the original plant back to the ground (you can spread them as mulch) and allow one or two suckers to grow up as your new banana plants.

Banana pests and diseases: apart from banana-thieving pests, bananas can suffer from wilts like Panama wilt, nematodes and viruses like bunchy top, which is widespread in south-east Asia and the Pacific but progressively being eradicated from Australia. You can help efforts to eradicate banana bunchy top by learning to recognise infected plants and quickly notifying authorities about any suspect plants.

Banana Varieties:

There are hundreds of banana cultivars and many of the cultivar names are synonyms, which makes it very difficult to make a list, let alone recommendations. Cultivars can be diploid, triploid or tetraploid hybrids. If you want to delve into all things banana, look at the ProMusa website which is trying to build a stable list of banana cultivar names.

[Note that local quarantine restrictions may only allow you to grow certain cultivars in your area. Check with your local government authority.]

Cavendish: the most common fruit banana. You can also get Dwarf Cavendish which only grows to about 5m (16ft)

Lady Finger: smaller, straighter and sweeter fruit that does not brown when it’s cut.

Red banana Photo Harvey Barrison. (LIcence Creative Commons 2.0)

Red Dacca banana Photo Harvey Barrison. (LIcence Creative Commons 2.0)

Red Dacca: red banana with orange flesh

Ducasse: often called a ‘sugar banana’. Must be ripened fully (completely yellow) before eating. Good for tropical zones as it’s more resistant to fungal diseases.

Senoritas: a small, round tropical banana with light orange flesh.

Plantains: although this is the most commonly grown banana in the world, it’s not good eating, being very starchy, so they are used mainly in cooking.

Other varieties include Pisang Celan, Blue Java and Bluggoe (a plantain variety).

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Marianne Cannon

About Marianne Cannon

Marianne Cannon has been broadcasting as Real World Gardener on radio 2RRR 88.5fm in Sydney, since September 2009, and the program is now syndicated to radio stations around Australia. It's about growing your own, the abc of plants, and how to create sustainable gardens to fit into today's environment. Not just a show about plants; it has a strong green and ecological bent, with co-presenters addressing issues such as native animals and plants, water conservation, composting, reducing waste, protecting native species and more.

6 thoughts on “How to grow edible bananas at home

  1. Excellent information. Really great to know on how banana plants can be protected by a surrounding hedge, as well as a stack of hay which is held together by bamboo poles. Would definitely plant Ducasse as it taste much better than others and are more resistant to fungal diseases. Thanks

  2. Good info, thanks for that. I am in Melbourne Aust and have been growing bananas from one plant and splitting the suckers off and it is going well. It is late September 2016 as I write this and my biggest one has just started pumping out a flower, it is the size of a football at the moment. I am very hopeful that with a 5-6 month maturation I may be able to get viable fruit late March 2017.

    The area I have the plant is surrounded on 3 sides by bricks which seem to absorb the heat of the sunshine and create a micro climate. I have diverted the water from the bathroom (we only use natural biodegradable bathroom products) and this plant is growing and fruiting in Melbourne very happily. We don’t get frosts as we are close to the ocean and I am hoping that the fruit is good.

    I mainly grow Bananas because I thing the leaves are beautiful and give the yard that tropical look that blends with our palm trees and landscaping.

    Happy days.

  3. l am in Queensland Australia, we have 3 Blue Java Bananas now producing, l am curious about two plants, that have just started to shoot a few days ago, anyone think there are a bit strange? the first one did not shoot like the other two…thanks

  4. Hello Ro,
    Not really unusual about the suckers.
    A mature plant produces new stems off from the main rhizome called shoots or suckers.
    You can remove any excess suckers to help your main plant produce fruit more successfully. For a fruit-producing plant, allow at least one sucker to grow as a replacement since stalks only produce fruit once and then die off.

  5. I’m new at growing bananas and I have been watching a few YouTube videos on banana harvesting , growing etc. which has confused me. My tree has only just started producing fruit do I let the tree finish producing fruit and wait for the fruit to look smaller than the hands above and then cut the purple pod off? And how long will the fruit need to mature on the tree? Just a bit worried as possums do live close by. Or can I put a coloured plastic bag over the entire crop and leave it until the fruit is ripe?

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