Jennifer StackhouseHow to prune a Magnolia, and how NOT to prune a Magnolia

I have two lovely magnolias, a sea view and a husband with a chainsaw,” began the question from one of the women in the audience at the club where I was guest speaker. “He wants to prune the magnolias,” she added. “What should I do?”

I didn’t have a good feeling about future for those magnolias but I did my best to save them with advice about how to deal with the tricky situation.

Beautiful spring flowers on Magnolia

Beautiful spring flowers on Magnolia

Evidently the magnolias have grown so well they are now blocking the sea view and her chainsaw-wielding hubby enjoys his sea view. This is a common scenario and trees usually come off second best to the view. Pruning the magnolias however was not going to give a good outcome for the homeowners, the view or the tree.

When a magnolia is pruned it loses its naturally rounded shape. Where the stems are cut the plant sends up vertical growth. This strong new growth would quickly block out the view with dense branches. As well, in winter when the tree is bare, the ugly cut branches would be in clear sight, spoiling the view of the sea beyond.

If any pruning is done during hot weather, there’s also a chance that the exposed branches could suffer sunburn leading to dieback.

Rich pink flowers on Magnolia x soulangeana. Photo Sandra Heggen

Rich pink flowers on Magnolia x soulangeana. Photo Sandra Heggen

The trees in question were Magnolia x soulangeana, which is a deciduous, spring-flowering magnolia. It is a classy and beautiful small tree that grows to around 6m high and wide. In summer it is green and leafy but in autumn the leaves fall. With the leaves gone from these trees, the view of the sea would be seen clearly through autumn and winter viewed through a tracery of branches.

Magnolia x soulangeana in flower against a brilliant blue sky is a sight to behold. Photo Sandra Heggen

Magnolia x soulangeana in flower against a brilliant blue sky is a sight to behold. Photo Sandra Heggen

Come late winter or early spring when the tree blooms on its bare silver branches, the deep pink and white saucer-shaped blooms would look spectacular against the backdrop of the blue sea and sky or even a grey sea and sky.

It is after the flowering as the new leaf growth erupts that the tree will again block out the sea view and the seaside suburb may hear the sound of a revving chainsaw.

 

Pruning tips

I recommended that the garden owner watched the trees over the coming winter to see which minor branches could be carefully pruned away to reveal more of the view. The aim of this type of pruning wouldn’t be to shorten the overall height of the tree, but to thin out the secondary or tertiary branches to create more transparency.

Rather than using the chainsaw, these thinner branches could be removed delicately with secateurs or shears cutting flush with the main branches.

Judicious pruning, such as on these camellias, can open up views through without damaging the plant's overall shape

Judicious pruning, such as on these sasanqua camellias, can open up views through without damaging the plant’s overall shape

As pruning encourages new growth, the pruned areas would need to be kept under observation. When new shoots appear, they too should be cut away or better still, rubbed off by hand. This technique is useful for any pruning where clusters of new growth form around a pruning cut. Rubbing away the soft new growth as soon as it emerges gradually deters any further growth.

Japanese gardeners, who know how to wield secateurs to create eye-catching bonsai and topiary plants, describe this type of pruning as:

“creating space for a bird to fly through the branches”

 

Creating more space

Lightening a canopy so it can be looked through is also a handy technique to use to let more light into gardens filled with dense leafy growth. The extra sunlight may mean there’s a chance for flowers, a few vegies or herbs to grow beneath the canopy.

Thinning side growth and clipping the top growth into green ‘clouds’ creates a striking garden feature as well as revealing interesting branches and making space for more plants. Evergreen shrubs such as sasanqua camellia and euonymus are good candidates for this type of pruning.

 

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Jennifer Stackhouse

About Jennifer Stackhouse

Recently Jennifer Stackhouse made the big move from Kurmond in NSW to a Federation house in the little village of Barrington tucked beneath Mt Roland in northwest Tasmania. With high rainfall, rich, red deep soil and a mild climate she reckons she's won the gardening lottery. She's taken on an acre garden that's been lovingly planted and tended for the past 28 years by a pair of keen gardeners so she is discovering a garden full of horticultural treasures. Jennifer is the author of several gardening books including 'Garden', which won a Book Laurel for 2013, as well as ‘The Organic Guide to Edible Gardens’, ‘Planting Techniques’ and ‘My Gardening Year’, which she wrote with her mother Shirley. She was editor of ABC 'Gardening Australia' magazine and now edits the trade journal 'Greenworld' magazine and writes regularly for the Saturday magazine in 'The Mercury'. She is often heard on radio and at garden shows answering garden queries.

20 thoughts on “How to prune a Magnolia, and how NOT to prune a Magnolia

  1. Hi Jennifer. Very interesting post – thanks. I love the idea of ‘creating space for a bird to fly through the branches’. I’m thinking that I might be able to use this technique with a big old avocado that we have that provides wonderful summer shade but a bit too much winter shade. I have been advised against cutting it back but it seems to me that this idea to thin out some of the smaller branches might work. Any thoughts on this? Re cloud pruning, I regularly drive past a small tree that is pruned like this and it looks fantastic.

    • Amanda – thank you! I think your avocado plan would work. As with the magnolia, cut flush with the stem where healing can occur and rub off any future shoots from that point. Just remove a few branches to start with. Jennifer

  2. Hi Jennifer, I’m sending this article straight to my husband to prove my point about our lovely old jacaranda which totally covers the backyard and is now blocking out light to the citrus and roses which are consequently suffering.

    • Angela – how lovely to hear from you! I am living in Tassie now with a beautiful garden. You’ll need to prune that jacaranda with a great deal of care and follow up to remove the suckers that follow pruning. Could be better option to move the rose and citrus this winter to a sunny spot well away from the jacaranda and just enjoy a shade garden – bromeliads for instance! As well as the shade the plants are also contending with root competition! All the best Jennifer

  3. Any tips on how to encourage growth? I have a tall spindly magnolia (i.e. three branches growing from the stem) and would like to encourage more branches up the length of the stem…

  4. I have recently moved into a house with a number of very leggy magnolia trees I have no idea how to prune them to make them more bushy. They have long spindly branches with leaves only on the ends and they are very tall. Any help would be appreciated.

    • Kirsten these magnolias are probably evergreen varieties – that is they have large, leathery green leaves often brown on their underside that stay on the tree all year. These magnolias can be pruned all over to encourage denser growth. Prune in early spring and keep the plants well watered. The trees may be growing in too much shade, which is why they are leggy. Jennifer

  5. Hello Kristen,
    I need your guidance. I have a small front yard with a very well established Japanese Magnolia. It’s roughly 9″ tall and 6″ in diameter. It’s a lovely plant but is dwarfing my yard. Is there any recovery or an I doomed to remove it and replace with an appropriate plant?

  6. Hello Jennifer,
    I’m from Montreal, Canada and loved reading your article. I’m a newcomer to gardening. This summer, a landscaper planted a Magnolia x Soulangiana in my front yard facing north along with a Yucca Filamentosa and an Endless Summer Hydrangea (I noticed my blue Hydrangeas turned dark pink after a few weeks) all about a foot apart. My lawn is clay soil based and has an irrigation system installed. Firstly, do I need to protect the Magnolia for the winter? (cold and snowy). Secondly, will the Magnolia suffer in any way from having a Yucca or the hydrangea planted near its base? Any advice for the positioning or the care of my plants would be welcome. (I have so many other questions for the rest of my new garden too.) Thank you.

  7. I have a 20 year old magnolia solangiana and every year the Rosellas take EVERY bud. I rarely see one flower. The tree is too high for me to net ! Irene

  8. I have a brand new magnolia that was planted last year. It has come back strong this year. (I am in central WV in the USA). My worry is that it will be a bush instead of a tree because there are many starts coming up from the dirt below it. I wanted a tree – what type of pruning can I do to have it become a tree instead of a shrub?

  9. The suckering doesn’t sound good. There are however shrubby magnolias – the star magnolia Magnolia stellata is one that’s a shrub. If it is one of the tree species then remove the lower growth but watch for regrowth and rub it off when it appears. Jennifer

  10. HI Jennifer Stackhouse,
    The trees in question were Magnolia x soulangeana, which is a deciduous, spring-flowering magnolia. It is a classy and beautiful small tree that grows to around 6m high and wide. In summer it is green and leafy but in autumn the leaves fall. With the leaves gone from these trees, the view of the sea would be seen clearly through autumn and winter viewed through a tracery of branches.
    Thanks.

  11. Hello-we have a 20 foot magnolia tree that has 2 rhododendrons the same size beside it. The magnolia tree has overgrown and the branches are taking over the rhododendron. I am concerned about stressing out the magnolia.

    • Kelly if the two are growing so close together you’ll need to prune either the magnolia or the rhododendron or both. Rhododendrons can be pruned and shaped so may be that is the best option.
      I am not sure where you are, but don’t prune the magnolia in the hot weather – probably autumn is a good time or better wait until winter when the magnolia is bare and you can better see the branch structure. Of course pruning at this time will remove flowering. Cut of the branches that are growing into rhododendron removing them flush to maintain a nice shape. Return to the pruning site on the trunk or stems to remove regrowth. Jennifer

  12. We have a very tall, large 65 year old magnolia tree. Living on the southern shore of Lake Erie, we often have very strong winds which threaten to blow it over in a storm. We have thought about cut off high clusters on top to reduce wind resistance. Is it better to trim or just hope for the best? Beneath its branches is our summer living room shared by neighbors and friends. It would be a great loss to everyone.

    • Betsy
      That’s a very tricky question. Certainly if the tree has been there for 65 years it is probably quite used to the wind. Pruning often just encourages bushy regrowth that’s more likely to be damaged by the wind in the future and as I’ve said in the blog, pruning often spoils the shape of a magnola. I would probably leave it but, if you want to prune the tree, definitely use a qualified aborist (not a tree lopper) and find someone whose work you can look at before you employ them. Best wishes Jennifer

  13. Hi Jennifer.
    I have planted a Lilly Magnolia about 20?years ago. It has never been pruned but have now become a tall leggy magnolia. The show of flowers are only at the top branches now which is about 5 or 6 meters up. They have long spindly branches with leaves only on the ends and they are very tall. I have no idea how to prune the tree to make it more bushy and showy to us earthlings. I live in Johannesburg South Africa. Any help would be appreciated. Regards. Gerdie

    • Hi Gerdie: I can understand your frustration but magnolias don’t respond well to hard pruning and that’s what would be needed to make the bush smaller. It could die or dieback. It probably isn’t just the size that’s the problem. It may be growing in too much shade (that reduces flowering), something may be attacking the buds reducing flowering (such as birds) or it may be moisture stressed. Try spreading a mulch of compost and well-rotted manure under the plant, giving it more water now as we move into the flowering period in the Southern Hemisphere and continue extra water through spring and summer. After flowering, feed with an azalea and camellia food. Watch for new growth especially lower down. The only pruning I would do is to lightly tip prune. Do this immediately after flowering. Jennifer

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